Lithuania

Kaunas is a small city that houses an absolutely wondrous “secret”. The 1920s and 1930s have left an indelible mark in the form of rows upon rows of art deco buildings all along the main boulevard of the city

Sleek, geometric lines, repetitive wave-like patterns, aeronautical designs that conjure images of streamlined ships and aircrafts, motifs inspired by ancient Egyptian, Mesopotamian, Aztec, Chinese and Indian designs, rooftops that are pyramidal or spiral and of course, materials that can only be described as “Great-Gatsby-esque” – from polychrome to stucco, terracotta and stained glass. What makes this all the more familiar, even if this is a distant land is how this neoclassical and modernist style of architecture adorns the streets of South Kolkata, where I was born, or South Mumbai. Grilles with designs that hark back to a geometric aesthetic, bold colour contrasts such as black and white and gold and silver and rounded, smooth contours. Hand-drawn tongas and the black and yellow Ambassador taxis of Kolkata would be as natural an accompaniment to these buildings as the autumnal hues of the Lithuanian pine and berch.

Kaunas also hosts a café culture paralleled by very few other Baltic destinations. The extravagant setting of the art deco building serves to perfectly accentuate the jazz, the coffee blends, the laid back cats and the warm hues of the ones on Laisvés Aléja.

Even if 100 years separate the era of art deco from the chic cafés of today, the joie de vivre and nonchalant elegance of the people of this city, declared a UNESCO Heritage Site in 2023, is as evident as ever – notwithstanding Nazi occupation or decades of Soviet-era brutalism.

The beauty of art deco is to be seen everywhere- including at the stairwell of my hostel – Hostel Lux

These windows remind me so much of the old streets of Calcutta (now Kolkata) in India!

Places to eat at

Bundu– definitely one of the cosiest and most aesthetic cafés I have been to. Set in a pristine art deco building and painted in a mild blue, the raspberry cheesecake and spiced chai were absolutely magical, as the soothing winter sun shone through the lintels and panels

Mangal– for their Middle Eastern and Turkish platters that are quite sizeable, filling and not very expensive. Definitely also popular with the locals!

Mtevani– for their fantastic Georgian cuisine, replete with a TV screen that displays images from this mountainous country and prices that are quite reasonable (10-12 EUR/person). I especially savoured the khinkali (ხინკალი ) which are curious dumplings (usually with lamb meat) filled with soup – that you can bite into and drink afterwards. Seems to be the perfect meal for a cool winter night atop the mountains of Tbilisi! The Georgain herbal tea, infused with berries, was also a sweet and welcoming warm drink to keep the cold away!

Lauras Soboras– with an enviable view right onto the St. Michael the Archangel church in the heart of Kaunas, the mediaeval-looking large candles, intricate Greek bust in the washroom, impeccable lighting and even more fascinating drinks (I tried the absinthe tea, the concentration of which was easily 45-75% ABV!). All for EUR10! This place is definitely where you want to head to pamper yourself and indulge in some old school royalty!

Kavine Kultūra– an absolute riot during the weekends, but amusingly which seemed to be a cute garage space turned into a techno DJ night (the fairy lights on the table, an intimate dance space and thronged by the young and popular in the city). Also, queer-friendly and definitely hits the right notes for a raucous, alcohol-filled fun weekend party with the pals

Places to visit

Cathedral-Basilica of St. Peter and St. Paul

Devil’s Museum- one of the most unique collections, probably in the world, of the devil. Pagan folklore from the Baltics turned into a wily creature that tries to trick humans into selling their soul, in later Christian traditions? Harbingers of spring in Hungary? An egotistical ruler that stole the wife of the exiled king of Ayodhya and hence had to pay for his sins? Many incarnations, innumerable stories and an absolutely fascinating way in which this private collection of A. Žmuidzinavičius is displayed (with 3k+ items as of 2009, many of them gifts from visitors even after the passing of the original collector!)

Kaunas Town Hall and Town Hall Square – a delightfully colourful plaza with a range of churches that honestly remind me more of Spain and Portugal than the Baltics!