A place of legends. The city is literally an amalgamation of the steadfastness of the great people who made it. Whether it is the Shri Krishna Udupi Matha’s origin story with Madhavacharya or Manipal University’s incredible rise primarily because of the sheer grit of T.M.A Pai, the twin cities cover everything from devotion to dissections!
Synonymous with some of the most delicious vegetarian food on the planet, I was certain Udupi had several hidden gems. But on the recommendation of Divyanshu, a close friend and as ardent an explorer of cuisines and cultures as I am, I headed straight to the Shri Krishna Matha. It is this Vaishnavism that is the root of the vegetarianism prevalent in the city (where they don’t even use onion 🧅 or garlic 🧄 , as per Saatvic traditions).
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Now, for the founding legend of the temple. The Madhwa Sarovar is where the sage, Madhavacharya, bathed the idol of Lord Krishna. The idol was gifted by the captain of the ship that the sage had helped steer away from danger on the coast of Malpe, Udupi in the 13th century C.E. Now, for the interesting bit. The idol was lost in the floods at Dwarka, Krishna’s home. This idol was originally commissioned by Rukmini, Krishna’s principal consort, as she adored his “balarupa” or image of him during his childhood.
The “Annadanam” or free meals at the temples are quite a sight. The “food halls” are filled with brightly coloured saris, gajras neatly tucked into the hair, and white dhotis– and signs of frenetic activity amongst the priests. I got in early to ensure I had a seat, and waited till 11:30 a.m., for the meals to begin. The walls are studded with posters of “chief priests past” performing the same rituals to the deity, as I imagine must have been followed from at least the 13th century C.E.- the date of the founding of the temple. The camera person, the angle, and the entire cyclicity of it all also really captured my imagination! And before I knew it, I was woken out of this stupor when the priests started distributing steel plates. Expecting banana leaves, imagine my shock when I discovered that everyone would be eating directly from the floor! That left me scurrying for plates to the chuckles of my fellow companions. “What a tourist,” I’m sure they were muttering under their breath! The meal 🥘, however, was super wholesome- with steaming hot rice 🍚, sambaar (with ridge-gourd), a unique chutney made of jackfruit (which I’m pretty sure is found in no other food outlet or location outside of the temple premises) and ending on a sweet tooth, with dessert made of glutinous rice balls, tapioca pearls and palm sugar (unfortunately I don’t know the local name of this absolute delicacy).
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Also, quick trivia on the temple: why are all males (not members of other genders for practical purposes) expected to be shirtless? Because you are not allowed to enter temples with stitched 🧵 clothes (yes, pants are an exception and this seems to apply to men only). Certainly helps with the humidity though!
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The temple complex is also surrounded with humble eateries serving up healthy and beautiful-to-look-at dishes at extremely affordable prices. I was told that many of the eateries- from Hotel Anuradha to Mitra Samaj, have existed from before independence (pre-1947 C.E!)
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As I had visited during “Janmashtami” or the occasion of Krishna’s birth, celebrations were abound. I stumbled upon a particularly fascinating ceremony, that really captivates your imagination for quite some time. The fervour of the clash of drums and cymbals ending in spectacular crescendos, the sweat, the devotion and the ancient traditions one gets to witness to this day- in what seemed to be a close family function (that I probably gate-crashed!)
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Now, onto the more modern setting of Manipal and the beaches!
The students at Manipal University sure live the good life. The Egg Factory (Hadiqa), is a quaint place – leafy, affordable and with great music (my jam is jazz :p). And their multiple egg 🍳 preparations (especially the masala bread egg) was certainly memorable. Their fresh fruit 🍉 🍎 🍌 juices are also totally worth it! Oh, and their menu has a quirky “period table” twist too :p
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Do not forget to also visit the Hasta Shilpa Heritage Village nearby. What a remarkable job the team has done in preserving homes- all the way from the 13th century CE to the 19th century CE. From Maratha homes in Malnad and Canara to Mangalorean Christian homes, and a hauntingly beautiful collection of tribal artefacts. Quite worth the visit!
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And finally, of course, head to the unique combination of backwaters with the open sea. While heading to “Delta Point”, you must also make a stop at ‘Arun’s Sea Food with Cold Toddy’, made famous by this video. Chicken sukka, squid 🦑 fry, kodi roti 🫓 and toddy- all washed down while looking at the Arabian Sea 🌊 splash across a narrow isthmus between the backwaters and the open sea! That is what this tiny, but very popular shack has to offer, close to Delta Point, Udupi.
Also, amongst the beaches- I much preferred the calm of Thottam Beach (which also has beach camping options) to the hustle and bustle of Malpe Beach. Having said that, the beaches are all at walking distance, and given I went during monsoons (off-peak season), provided private access to one of nature’s most beautiful shows!
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Places to eat at
Udupi
- Hotel Anuradha
- Mitra Samaj
Manipal
- Saiba
- Dollops
- CTF
- Snack Shack
- Eye of the Tiger
- Dee Tee
bongfrombombay 